Monday, July 28, 2008
PENKOV – EFFORTLESS ELEGANT FASHION FOR SPRING/SUMMER 09’
“DECORATIVE BODY ARMOR” AND A PORCELAIN PRESENTAION
JULY, 18th, THE ROYAL PORCELAIN MANUFACTORY BERLIN KPM
Words, Images by Judith Ecochard
We usually love presentations…because…like visiting showrooms, we can get up close and personal with the clothes.
Except when a staging is jammed packed and the models are not properly positioned.
We wish the obviously, immensely talented Bernadette Penkov had thought to place her mannequins on an elevated platform so we didn’t have to strain our necks to see her creative, highly individualistic pieces…
The Berlin based designer had shown her A/W 08 collection during London Fashion Week so she was on our radar…and should be on yours too. Next time we are in this fab city, we will make a point of visiting the Penkov boutique in the hip Mitte section.
CONFECTIONS:The eight or so looks, all made from luxe white silk, hand detailed lace, and light as air chiffon were sophisticated and stunning in a Victor & Rolf way. The net overlays, silk ribbon trims, origami folds, and delicate draped tunics also harked back to the mastery of Japanese geniuses like Issey Miyake, Yoji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons and Hanae Mori (in a delicate way).
We appreciated the contrast/tension between the ulta-feminine garb and the "hard" masculine in the white porcelain armor.
Additionally, the looks were successfully accented by porcelain pieces as jewelry with striking neck and ankle pieces. As Penkov noted in the press release:
“KPM, with its style consciousness, is a perfect partner for my new collection.”
Again, reiterating our point that Berliners completely embrace the concept of art and fashion as meshed entities-which seems to ridiculously torment some people in the USA. Though let's cheer GAP's artists' series of tees.
RETAIL: Penkov, Brunnenstrasse 65A 13355, Berlin; +49 (0) 30 4630 9047