JUJÚ THE PR: NYC'S ACCESS TO FASHION DESIGNERS THUY, OLIVIA MORRIS, THRIVE, MANISH AURORA, ANNE-VALÈRIE HASH
TEXT, IMAGES J. Ecochard
We were intrigued by an evite to a “Bloggers Preview” at the downtown NYC JuJú Showroom because:
It was an acknowledgement by the fashion community that scoops online pre-date print reads…BY MONTHS!!!!!
Plus the name is French (we are 50% too) – and we already follow one client, Willow-a women’s designer from Australia who showed to a packed house during New York’s Fashion Week this past February. A striking Fall 2008 look that caught our eyes at the time-and again in the showroom- is the last look struttin’ down the runway- a wool felt A-line dress with draped high neck detail and mirror beading (Look #24).
OUR VISIT:
Entering the spacious showroom escorted by the smart Erin Fischer -we are toute de suite awestruck by the over the top, sparkling extravaganzas masterminded by Manish Aurora, a UK/India based designer- who clearly sources his native India’s affinity for sizzling pop colors, and intricate hand embroidered and beaded details.
We feel Aurora’s creations, including accessories/sky-high shoes… and a “toned down” Resort Line (which we did not get to see) will probably draw yeahs and nays, editorial speaking. As in thumbs up-Paper, thumbs down-Town and Country (IMHO).
No matter if certain ensembles were a bit much for us, Aurora’s thought patterns (warrior inspired Fall 2008 runway show, collaborations with avant-garde Japanese artist Kelichi Tanaami, Crystallized™-Swarovski Elements, and Casadei for shoes) are complex and refreshing.
And like French designer Kenzo and Italy’s Moschino-this joie de vivre take on fashion mixed with surrealistic touches is not destined for the backs of those who do not want to be noticed!!!!
OUR TOP VOTE:
Compared to Anna fav-Doo Ri, New York based Thuy Diep serves up a sophisticated collection of well cut, “casual chic-romantic understated” expertly tailored separates and coats. The fabric quality of wools and silk are tops, clearly European-and explains the “affordable” Designer prices (Retail around $300-$900). We loved the silk, sleeveless teal green/blue tab dress with slouchy side pockets, a brown tweed funnel trapeze cross-seamed coat dress with slimming black insets, a bat-wing mustard silk blouse, and a royal purple frame collar dress.
And only honesty prevented us from walking out with Thuy’s leather ruched fingerless opera length gloves adorning our arms.
Thuy’s draping/patterning skills were probably perfected while toiling for top designers Carolina Herrera, Zac Posen and Peter Som- before branching out on her own. Most fashionistas will think “United Bamboo” at first glance.
This is a significant designer-and given her business background we feel Thuy’s line has already earned its sea legs.
JuJú also carries the erudite elegant ruffled scarves and feather light chiffon scalloped wraps… by American designer Maria Pinto.
New to us was the design “incubator” collective Thrive. Based in LA, the brand has a “subdued sense of androgynous” (their words) fused with Parisian punched up sophisticated touches- that are anything but California formal (denim jeans).
A few key looks by participating talent, Ben Cho shine, particularly a romantic grey silk blouse with ruffled hems that reveals like flower petals (Autumn/Winter 2008) and an adorable light grey cotton dress with gathered hems and a ribbed waist defining band - from the Spring 2008 looks…that reminded us of 1980’s Norma Kamali comfy performance wear as street-wear credo. No wonder keys pieces were out on loan to forward thinking magazines.
Lastly, we are going to keep an eye on London cobbler Olivia Morris a talent who anoints the collection we saw with names that begin with “F.”
We loved the edgy Mary Jane with double t-straps in patent teal (Filly), the oversized bows on a pair of patent flats (Funny) and the dark wooden heel strikingly embedded into the soles of glam black patent boots (Farah).
Classics with a twist.