Batting Practice For A Season Opener
Text, J. Ecochard
Peter Som did double duty February’s first week-showing his own collection, and then as Creative Director for Bill Blass…staging a large runway show of 47 looks.
The revolving door of designers since the iconic fashion favorite's 2002 death hasn’t stopped various private investors from pouring money into the label…and the Upper East Side clientele from their front row seats. And all the “right” editorial and big name buyers showed up too.
Though one lady of a certain age sniffed “better bridge” we felt the day looks, clearly an homage to Mr. B’s late 60’s/early 70’s classics, were Som’s strongest…featuring Blass’ signature bowties and menswear fabric- as in a shimmery tweed and a tropical wool trouser suits. A black peau de soie trapeze trench was also a winner.
Some pouf like evening separates were less successful as the heavy brocade, sequin fabrics lacked movement and were unflatteringly stiff in a full skirt cuts. Plus, the ostrich feather numbers were too much: Blass often used feathers as a dramatic punch line…that worked.
Given the buzz, we feel Som will be given the opportunity to show a Bill Blass Spring collection-though if we’re hoping for a Galliano/Dior turn-around, it’ll have to be less archival mining and more modern creativity.
Photos courtesy of Dan Lecca, WireImage, and Getty Images