MARC BY MARC JACOBS – taking things into context

Timestamp: Tuesday, September 11th
Location: the NY State Armory, 68 Lexington Avenue

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Photographs, www.style.com

“It’s taking things out of context that makes things interesting.”
- Marc Jacobs

Many say that genius is often misunderstood. We’ll admit that we were guilty of this crime when it came to our first take of the Marc by Marc Jacobs spring 2007 collection. A big problem was that we had not seen the Monday night “backwards” Marc Jacobs show which helped put the Tuesday afternoon show into context. It really began to make sense when we became engaged in a conversation later that afternoon about the limited Edition Vuitton patchwork bag. The new must-have limited edition piece appeared in Vogue’s “Last Look” page edited by Virginia Smith. The squares used are from different Vuitton bag leathers and fabrics used over the years. The bag runs into the 5-figures, but to a die-hard Vuitton collector it's a must-have. This bag will take her down a sentimental journey in which she reflects on all of the Vuitton bags she’s acquired over the years.
For his Marc by Marc Jacobs line, the designer seems to have had seventies airline stewardesses and a youthful Mary Tyler Moore on his mind. The stewardesses [flight attendant, today] would have approved of his neat trenches and shirtdresses and appreciated the official looking gold buttons and hardware. While we were initially thrown-off by the seemingly “extra” panel on a woman’s trench coat, we “got it” after having the above-mentioned conversation about the patchwork bag.
The men as usual, were in very casual ensembles that a hip young guy in the arts would want in his closet. You could image him going-off to work in a red and camel color block sweater worn over a white shirt and skinny black tie, charcoal stripe pants and metallic track sneakers.
Key hair artist Guido and the Redken Team provided excitement with their eighties club kid. The hot pink and red side parted hair reminiscent of the Eco Spread featuring Shalom Harlow in American Vogue’s September 2007 issue.

Although the show was studiously retro, taken off the runway and broken-up at retail, the individual pieces will call out to you from the racks. We experienced this phenomenon last week while visiting Neiman’s Westchester store location [White Plains, NY]. Mr. Jacobs’ designs are like Miuccia Prada’s. At first you’re not sure, then slowly but surely, you fall madly in love. We left Neiman’s, wanting everything on the floor.

RAG & BONE: “Made-in-America”

Timestamp, Wednesday, September 5, 4:50pm
The location: Cipriani’s on East 42nd Street

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Backstage photographs, J. Ecochard

The palatial golden interior and gilt chairs spoke of an important show. Add the supermodel presence [Angela Lindval] an audience comparable to that at Marc Jacobs on Monday night, and some great wearable clothes. They all add up to the necessary you components for a great show. Prior to the show, the designer reportedly told the John Frieda hair team led by Serge Normant to take the hair down, which accounted for the delay. In the end, the hair looked great, bouncy, but a little bit mussed-up and very sexy.

This label is unique in that the clothes are made entirely in America, which predisposed us to like it from when it started in 2001.
The spring collection stayed in a mostly navy, cream, and white color palette, with lots of pinstripe looks thrown in. from seersucker to wider asymmetrics By cutting the jackets tight in the armhole and fitted across the chest, the British designers saved the men’s suits from being just another Brooks Bros. Pinstripe suit.
For women, important pieces were short shorts or a looser trouser. Women who don’t really like dressing up will like the elegantly casual white suit accessorized with a narrow saddle colored belt.
Best for the men was a skinny black suit with just a hint of sheen to it but we balked at the black tux with nerd length hemmed pants a la eighties computer geek. Post-show, though we overheard a male-Calvin Klein model/musician enthusing about this same pant to his female companion, that he “couldn’t wait” to wear that cool new pant.”

MARCHESA - C'est magnifique!

Timestamp: Wednesday, September 5, 6:25pm

Location: Chelsea Art Museum, 556 W 22nd Street, the Forbidden Zone
Rating: +++, a highpoint of this NY Fashion Week

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Photographs, J. Ecochard

Background 411:
The label burst onto the scene in 2004 when Renee Zellweger wore a Marchesa dress to the London premiere of Bridget Jones. Since then, designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig have been go-to girls for A-list actresses needing to look stunning on the Red Carpet.

Other than the tricky lighting due to the models being poised on Lucite boxes lit with fluorescent tungsten rods, this is an example of how to do a great presentation. The clothes were grouped into 11 small vignettes for easy viewing. It was obvious the designers had carefully edited themselves. This format enabled us to view the entire collection in a record 10 minutes despite the dense crowd of editors, retailers and supporters. The color palette was a pleasing mix between sophisticated nude, ivory and indigo with pieces in vibrant cerise like the stunning cerise silk organza empire dress that burned itself onto our brain for the rest of the week.

Brides to be could consider the white silk-chiffon draped long dress with lace, mirror and hand-embroidered detail on the bodice. This is a gown that would work beautifully even if it were not your first time down the aisle. Even better, it’s a gown you’ could [and would] wear to another big occasion.
But it was Vignette #7 that really grabbed us. In it, the designers skillfully referenced YSL’s iconic “Les Russes” collection from the seventies. The indigo colored silk chiffon with hand-embroidered gold appliqué was a worthy homage.

Hair, makeup and nails – Marchesa combines sophisticated glamour with an exciting undercurrent of edginess running through it which puts these creations in another league. Accordingly, the hair Teddy Charles [for Logics Professional Haircare] was Princess Bride-ish, parted precisely dead center and long. Talia Schobrook and the Stila team created a polished face that complicated the sophistication of the clothes. The surprising twists were the black nails [and toes] by CND [Creative Nail Design].
Nail 411 with CND’s Jan Arnold:
Q: What’s new?
A: The nail as “an elongated high heel” and the Lucite reverse French manicure.
As always, Jan graciously gave us the lowdown on nails going forward, and is truly an example of what you’d look like if you too had perfect nails. Enthuses Jan, “ Longer nails are so exciting, they’re like wearing high heels, and they make you stand taller. Another great thing is that when nails are longer, they get less dirty than when they’re short.”
Jan herself was wearing CND’s new Lucite reverse French Manicure. The new manicure matches the season’s Lucite heels and is a welcome change from the now ubiquitous French Manicure.

Time commitment: Count on 3 hours the first time, 1 hour for each maintenance appointment.

And now, a word about our sponsors

Timestamp: NY Fashion Week, September 5 – 12, 2007

Location: The Bryant Park tent lobby

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Backstage photographs of METLIFE “Snoopy in Fashion” show, J. Ecochard
Runway photographs of MET LIFE show, courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
Photograph of Judith Ripka Jewelry, courtesy of the Judith Ripka Company


While fashion is certainly about fantasy, we all know that without some commerce fashion cannot exist. Nowadays, “commercial” is no longer the dirty word it used to be in the nineties, where the biggest insult [and kiss of death] you could deliver was that a designer’s collection was.. ..”aah, commercial”.
Fern Mallis and her team at IMG Fashion did a slam-dunk job in securing some of the most interesting sponsors yet this season.
We enjoyed spending time with Mercedes-Benz admiring the vintage roadster, viewing the new design collaborations at Lycra and necklaces at Judith Ripka. Our first stop every day while in the tents was at Nespresso, and we absolutely adored “the Snoopy in Fashion” show. Although we drooled over the gorgeous Italian shoes displayed by the Italian Trade Commission displayed around the fountain, we were happy to go home with a comfy pair of comfy Havaianas.
Nespresso
As coffee qualifies as one of our major food groups, we were overjoyed at this addition to the sponsorship list. Nespresso fit right in with the well-dressed crowd; it is couture coffee, not just a cuppa joe. We love the idea of Nespresso bringing the traditional European element to drinking coffee to the tents [and the US in general]. So far, there’s only one Nespresso Boutique Bar in the States, at 761 Madison Avenue [bet. 65th & 66th Streets], but never fear, they’re in the process of a big roll-out through major cities in the US and Canada.
If you can’t make it to Madison Avenue, you can pick up one of the nifty [and compact] Lattisima espresso/cappuccino/latte makers. This machine’s got the element of ease going for it, there’s only one button to push to make the perfect cappo or latte. Better still, there’s a button that auto-cleans the machine for you. Currently available in 3 colors, look for 4 new colors coming soon.
www.nespresso.com for further information

Some jewelry trend tips, courtesy of Judith Ripka

The irresistible baubles in the shiny glass case lure us to this booth like a pilot light each and every season.
We can always count on PR Director, Jessica Stark, and her team to give us a few of the top jewelry trends.


For spring 2007:

- Necklaces are where the primary interest lies. Chandelier necklaces continue, but in an elongated shape like the truffle necklace shown here in 18K gold. This 17" beauty goes perfectly with the ladylike suits we’re wearing this fall and will look just as good with the patio dresses we’ll be donning in spring.
Champagne truffle necklace, $13,000
Visit www.judithripka.com for orders and inquiries

Tech's Tenacles

Text by J. Ecochard


Remember the Web 1.0 craze?

As in, toss around zillions of dollars and see if something”sticks” and actually grows into a profitable business.

Well, industries ignoring the hype may have been penny wise, but proved to be pound foolish. Just look at how much music is still OVERWHELMINGLY downloaded for free. Legal or not.

Which is why the retail and gaming businesses are embracing technology and acknowledge the critical need to get users onboard.

We attended two events that highlight this changing world. On Sept. 10th, 2007, the lovely Rockefeller Center Loft and Gardens served as a dramatic backdrop for an introduction to an Internet enabler, the privately held, Silicon Valley company, Emdigo. Founded by graphics and video game industry veterans, this company develops software to drive content on mobile phones…and the press breakfast introduced the blending of Emdigo’s proprietary (but not patented) software with Finola Hughes, a super nice, style expert. According to a press release, “Finola’s 3D digital fashion content Style Kick will be available to over 70 million mobile phones, offering regularly updated fashion tips and trends at your fingertips.”

IMHO: paying for content is a tough sell, especially with all the timely free content out there. With cellphones ads arriving (MySpace for example), even a $3.99/month already seems outdated and a non-viable revenue stream. But- the concept of a PDA/mobile phone ‘Vulcan Mind Melt’ is real. And content on everything- will be accessed that way.













A few nights later, we learned about the fun gaming destination Pogo.com™ .

Intrigued by the notion that women are the biggest Internet gamers, we were pumped to meet the Electronic Arts™ owned Pogo.com team who graciously, and patiently introduced the technologically inept attendees to the addictive world of Internet games. With over 80 free games and an additional adfree bunch available to ClubPogo™ subscribers (1.5 million and counting), we are convinced that the Pogo community- that includes experts to idiot-level players of all ages who have 5 minutes or 5 hours to play-will negatively impact the productivity of in-the-know office drones. It’s amazing.

Logo Image Courtesy of Pogo.com ™

Academy of Art University [AAU] students mount a highly professional runway show at Bryant Park

Some behind the scenes look at the preparations

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Backstage Photographs, J. Ecochard
Runway Photographs, courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Timestamp: Friday, September 7, @ 5pm
Location: the Flatotel, 135 West 52nd Street, NYC

We previewed the ten collections the day before at the Flatotel, where Simon Ungless, AAU’s Director of Graduate Fashion and the show’s Executive Producer and the student designers were putting the final touches on their collections.

Saturday, September 8, 6:20pm
Location: Backstage @ The Academy of Art Show

The big tent, Bryant Park

A student show it may be, but the cast of supporting actors are all well-known professionals from the models to the hair makeup artists from the well-known Workgroup agency.

The hair: easily one of the most interesting hair-does of the week.
The look: 1930’s artist meets Janis Joplin
Hair lead, Tokyo [no last name] has been doing the Academy show for @ ten years. Said Tokyo, “It’s a progression, this time we wanted a bit of a rock and roll edge crossed with a crimped forties style.”
He was spot-on as the highly textured hair was right in synch with the clothes in which texture and design were of paramount importance.


The Academy of Art Show, later that evening, shortly after 7:00pm

Kathryn Scully
The inspiration: family vacations to Cape May.

While described in the program as “a beachwear collection of bikinis” the stars of her show were the scrumptious fine gauge cashmere loungewear pieces to wear AFTER you get out of the pool or ocean. After a long day running around New York attending shows, we longed to go home and relax- in her striped wrap hooded top and blue cashmere shorts.

Kenneth Ning,
The inspiration: the Champion Italian soccer team, Forza Azzurri.

Mr. Ning already showed the collection in April in Academy’s San Francisco show, the New York show was stronger. Mr. Ning already knows a thing or two about producing a commercial collection. He’s already sold several pieces of his collection to a magazine editor from Russia. There was lots of patent leather, which was aptly inspired by the patent leather of a soccer ball. Each look featured beautiful tailoring and an excellent sense of color. Of special note, the navy blue patent leather trench and the flawless grey suit paired with a fuschia knit top underneath. He toughened up his classic silhouettes by accessorizing his guys with white leather Converse high-tops, a good choice as his soccer playing thug has innumerable pairs of trainers in his closet and would very rarely wear any other type of footwear


Yi-Ting 'Maxim' Lee
The inspiration: JoJo’s Bizarre Adventure, a manga written & illustrated by Hirohiko Araki

What really worked - Ms. Lee’s one of a kind sweater jacket, which was completely wearable and ready for retail. It rivaled or exceeded any of Angela Missoni’s knits. The substantial knits looked great paired with sexy seventies style leggings. While handcrafted items like this don’t come cheap, and take time to produce, like a Hermes Birkin bag, you’ll treasure it and wear it for years to come.


Kyung Min Kim's
The inspiration: Childhood fairy tales

Ms. Kim has taken the frump factor out of the traditionally staid housecoat and she’s right on target for Spring 2008 as housecoats and patio dresses are making a big comeback. Our favorite, the black shirt collar long sleeve dress with a print of horses strolling in front of the castle.


Min Sun Lee
The inspiration: Russian Matryoshka dolls.

Like the Russian models that have dominated the international catwalks lately, Ms. Lee’s terrific knits took the cake. Her polka dot knit sweater dresses with matching motorcycle helmets drew praise from even the toughest editors in the crowd and were just flat-out adorable. We were hard pressed to come up for a favorite, as we loved all eight outfits she showed.



The take-away: It seems that students these days are of course focused on being creative and innovative but are also giving serious thought to the potential salability of the designs they create. And it's a good thing, because if they move on and become designers, someone has to buy and wear what they've designed.

Hermes, Madison Avenue - an oasis of calm in the middle of NY Fashion Week

Timestamp: Tuesday, September 11, 2007
5:45pm,
The Location: The Hermes store, 691 Madison Avenue

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Photographs, Travis Brown, Jr.

In the middle of New York Fashion Week, we found ourselves with twenty minutes to burn before the opening of the Lambertson Truex store opening on East 60th street, What to do but indulge in a tour of the uptown Hermes boutique, right across the street?
The economy may be on its way to hell, and the dollar’s officially in the dumpster, but you wouldn’t know that if you were in le Monde of Hermes. The saleswoman on the women’s clothing floor confirmed that certain items, such as a versatile black skirt suit were sold out and on reorder and that business was good, despite the weak dollar. She hadn’t though yet sold the crocodile coat that was upwards of six figures. Jean Paul Gaultier has done a wonderful job in keeping to the classically casual lifestyle the privileged [but never ever vulgar] lifestyle the Hermes woman leads. In addition to the sold-out skirt suit were some beautiful black wool coats, earthy tweeds for windy weekends at the country house and some whimsical print blouses that only JPG could have designed.


Even if that splendid crocodile piece hasn’t sold – yet, [we’re confident some lucky woman will find it under her Christmas tree], there’s always the bags and small leather goods to more than sustain this venerable “maison” through this roller coaster economy.

With that in mind, we have posted images of our February 2007 visit to one of the Hermes Ateliers located above one of the Paris boutiques. We had the privilege to have a look at just how the iconic “Kelly” and “Birkin” are made, thanks to a study tour entitled, “French design, luxury industries, and Intellectual properties” organized and sponsored by Jean-David Levitte, L’Ambassadeur from France and his very able staff, from their D.C. offices. The tour was led by the very personable Olivier Piton., Attaché Public Affairs for the Embassy of France.

The take-away from the Paris and NY Visits: these bags are pricey, no question, but each and every one of them is made by hand and NO mistakes are tolerated. Over 1,500 leather craftsmen toil-away on the always –in-demand bags and job satisfaction is high. Many of these employees have celebrated 35 years working for Herms.
Another way to look at it is as Guillaume de Seynes, Executive Vice President for Hermes does. Quipped Monsieur Seynes, “Our products are not expensive, they are costly.”

Hermes Madison Avenue, tel: 212-751-3181

The Lisa Thon Collection

Timestamp: Thursday, September 6, 7:00pm

Location: The Bryant Park Grill

Text, Erica Henderson
Photographs, courtesy of Bonnie Bien, La Presse

Despite the fact that Lisa Thon's collection was entitled "Blessed Forest" it was apparent that her real inspiration is the beachside of her native Puerto Rico. Everything from the frothy, feminine ruffles of Lisa's dresses to the sparkling jewel-encrusted bikinis created visions of relaxing on a warm coast with the sound of surf all around. Every shade of tropical water and iridescent fish are represented with Lisa's colorful and exotic collection. Models with messy beach braids, sauntered down the catwalk, followed by billowing chiffon and faille dress glittering with beaded detail. This collection is not just full of visions of girly ruffles in oceanic colors, but also includes more refined feminine touches of Victorian buttons, open keyholes, intricate lace and exquisite attention to movement on the human form.
Lisa Thon has a meticulous eye for detail, which is apparent in her olive green beaded chiffon dress complete with lilac lining and belted at the waist. Lisa's whimsical love of the ocean and the tropical beach is evident in every last splash of color and glittering detail. Ending her collection with a strong note by showcasing a gold shantung one-shoulder long balloon dress with pink lining, Lisa left the audience craving a cold drink and a trip to Puerto Rico.

Designers Beatriz, Meister, Creenstone-Spotlight Ready

Text and Photos by J. Ecochard
The fashion beacons of light that managed to shine through the zillions of NY Spring 2008 presentations and shows- are buzz magnets of creativity. Ahhhhh…they make us weep with delight.

Lerario Beatriz , a sophisticated collection by Brazilian Ana Lerario, invited the press to an under air-conditioned venue on a steamy late afternoon- that seemed just right, given the sultry sensuality of her beautifully perfected clothes. Similar to Reyes-who is repped out of Lerario's NY based FiftyTwo Showroom, the feminine details of couture-like finishes magically imparted a Great Gatsby, lazy Sunday afternoon tea- aura, as did the softly curled updos snuggled beneath black berets and ingenue makeup. Sexy may be back, but not in this line. Instead, loyal fans will clamor for the refined demeanor of gently rolled hem, pocketed linen shorts, and hand crotchet touches appearing as a thick waist band on a flowing cotton linen skirt, and as sweet layers on a summery tiered sheath- idling under a wisp of a sheer white blouse.

The next week’s quick stroll through the aisles of ENK’s enormous Coterie at the Javits Center, had loads of ‘nice’ basics- but two collections really stood out.

David Meister , a Seventh Avenue veteran, nailed the sleeveless sheath dressing craze that will continue to dominate sales next year. Expertly tailored (and lined!!!!) in flattering, barely there A-lines or tapered with to the knee hems and shaped with coordinating waist belts… the dresses will be available in bold flower prints or Narciso Rodriguez worthy seamed all black or white solids. Plus, the dresses are sure to land on many ladies’backs: the versatile pieces are not only available in many sizes, but will enhance a multitude of body shapes.

Being dedicated Eurotypes, though not enthralled with the strengthening Euro, Creenstone , a Holland outerwear design house, ‘discovered’ by the spot-on sales team at Isabella Company -who also import France’s Gerald Darel and Germany’s Bianca labels- got our hearts pounding. The Creenstone collection shows true innovation, styled with panache rain/outwearwear in parachute silky, nylon/polyester mix and patent leather materials, with practical and artful to the eye, draw-string sleeves and metal hardware buttons and clasps…. that will FINALLY offer a chic alternative to that boring already trench coat that already sits in every closet in America. Enough.


Photo courtesy of Creenstone


This label, celebrating the big 12 ½ year mark, “like a USA 25th reunion” according to salesperson Nancy Lehmann-Murphy, is an unknown entity, though Nordstrom’s is clever enough to sell the line. Creenstone’s will be on that retailer’s website so that Nordstrom-deprived Manhattan dwellers can indulge.

Now if only the US Treasury would ignore the Washington DC lobbyists… and give us Americans some buying power back with a USA dollar rally.

AURELIO COSTARELLA-Worth Learning How To Pronounce

Aussie Star’s Stellar Style

Text and Photos by J. Ecochard

September 10th 2007

Western Australian Ray Costarella’s couture worthy label, Aurelio Costarella is destined to corral a gaggle of confident celebufans…joining the already smitten, (and smart) Cate Blanchett.

And the reason? To see is to become a believer.

Though not on our radar, one glimpse at the backstage racks widened our semi-jaded Fashion Week eyes…in a good way. The exquisite fabrics, time-consuming hand embellished details, enchanting designs, and sophistication of cuts for his Spring 2008 collection…are simply big “wows.” On our wish list are the supple white leather, delicately layered, scalloped paillette bolero, intricately gathered/tuckpleated “Stellar Goddess Dress” in ivory silk satin with antique silver beads and mesh embellishments, and a dresser needed, seamed, boned corset that would have the French masters green with envy. Costarella, the former guiding light of Aussie favorite “Milk” label, has worldwide distribution. We can only dream of being tipped off to the sample sale’s locale if he doesn’t archive his work.





As always, the MAC Pro team, led by John Stapleton, made the already stunning models look even more amazing lining the eyes in black kohl pencil with sheer white shadows dabbed at the inner corners to make the strong eyes pop, lashes coated in black mascara, balanced by soft pink glossy lips, and a healthy sheen to sweetly blushed skin. And inspired by wind-swept 19th century Romanticism, hair was carefully undone with long, thick, gently curled locks pinned up in top knots, or left loosely dangling in a thick ponytail, down the back.

Bronte sisters by way of the Outback.

In sum, the clothes are costly- but statement pieces that will endure.

NILI LOTAN-Contemporary Classics

WE ALL MADE A DIFFERENCE
Text by J. Ecochard
Photos Courtesy of WireImage

American’s thirst for self-expression –as in Warhol’s quip about 15 minutes of fame-can be quenched with user generated Internet uploads.
And …you’re a star!

Fashion, always on the cusp of what’s new, joined the reality show fray, courtesy of
Mercury Mariner and Hachette Filipacchi –who sponsored a contest where three designers (whittled down from several) competed for a shot of runway fame at Style 360, a cutting edge fashion lounge venue, during NY’s Spring 2008 Fashion Week. The winner was determined by the amount of “text” and “online” votes that they received from Elle magazine readers casting opinions on the respective signature pieces. The three emerging designers:

Marci Zaroff -of beloved eco brand Under The Canopy

Nili Lotan, an Israeli designer of elegant, classic chic in womenswear - who has scored a massive hit with a repeat machine gun print sadly inspired by global conflicts,

and

Minden Chan a West Hollywood lady with an eye for immaculate, couture worthy tailoring and trims mixed with delicate wisps of femininity,

-all have a loyal customer bases.

Winner Nili Lotan however, got the September 10th runway show. Her collection featured a largely clean silhouette (menswear 90's Armani sensibility) of mix and match separates in red, white and black silk satin fabrics-with a nod to how grown-up women want to dress. Even the deep v-neck plunging tops and adorable urban worthy cropped flaired shorts, had a sophisticated feel. No surprise that upscale retailers like Barney’s and Ron Herman (LA), carry Lotan’s designs.

New York Fashion Week: Backstage at Lela Rose & the season's trends with Neiman's Ken Downing

BACKSTAGE AT LELA ROSE:
Timestamp: THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 9:05am
Location: the Salon, Bryant Park

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Photograph of Ken Downing, courtesy of Neiman Marcus
Runway photographs, courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Beauty.com only chooses one or two indie shows in New York to work with each year. Last year, it was VPL, this year; makeup artist Tina Turnbow turned her and her talented team’s attention to making the girls at Lela Rose look beautiful, but frankly not that different than they do off the runway.

Using only NARS Cosmetics, she created two soft watercolor – y looks

#1: Persimmon and #2: Seafoam, the latter being our favorite.

Beauty.com gets our vote for the prettiest and most natural face thus far backstage.
Lest you think this is a no-makeup look, look below for the list of NARS Cosmetic products you’ll need to get “the SEAFOAM” look.

Cheeks: “Deep Throat” blush, “Albatross” as highlighter

Eyes: “Parrot Cay” eyeliner, “Rebecca” eye shadow duo

Lips: *The NEW “Belle de Jour” velvet matte pencil topped with “Striptease” lip gloss.
We’ve been in love with “Belle de Jour lipsticks ever since Mr. Nars debuted it over 10 years ago, but we’ll all have to wait until spring 08 to get it in its new longer lasting pencil formulation.

*NARS Cosmetics available at www.beauty.com and www.narscosmetics.com

9:40am: The Spring ’08 Trend LOWDOWN WITH KEN DOWNING

We were lucky to have a few words with Neiman Marcus’ Ken Downing just before the show went off. Ken is one of the most approachable and intuitive members of the fashion flock. He is that rarest of species, a retailer with a highly editorial eye. In another lifetime, he would have made a fantastic Creative Director at Vogue Italia or American Vogue. In this lifetime, he’s Senior Vice President/Fashion Director for Neiman Marcus.
Here’s what’s what for Spring 2008:

1. A lot of painterly inspirations – as at Adam & Eve and Rachel Roy’s sleeveless sheath

2. Bold brights, especially turquoise [Nautica’s jacket worn with crisp white pants]

3. The dress is working its way closer to the body. Fitted in this case = subtle and sexy, NOT slutty. Enthuses Ken, “ It’s very Herve Leger, Ungaro, and celebrates the woman’s body.”

4. The Jacket continues, with a lot of shoulder emphasis, which works to balance out the heavy emphasis on the waist this season. [Fiandaca Couture]

5. And everyone’s favorite: THE LONG PATIO DRESS.
We saw it in LA a year ago, and chic girls about town have been wearing it but its big moment is just around the corner. Ken dashed-off to his front row perch saying, “I love a patio dress!”

Ports 1961 - design at a whole other level

PORTS 1961

Timestamp: Friday, September 7, 2007


Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week


7:50AM Backstage at Ports 1961 with designer Tia Cabani.
Her Signature: designing “special daywear”
Although she’d most likely pulled an all-nighter, Tia looked fresh and glamorous, as only chic European women can. Said Tia, “It’s about an easy and polished look. My woman is global and eclectic. Some of my customers are in their mid-20s and some are 60+. My clothes appeal to a wide age range of women.”
Case in point: two staffers were wearing the identical gray Ports dress the morning of the show. One was 25, the other 47. Both looked equally fabulous as did twenty-something Ivanka Trump and Harper’s Bazaar Editor in Chief, Glenda Bailey, both sitting in the front row.

Tia’s trends: At Ports, the dress is moving closer to the body. She achieved this with more tucking and pleating which places more of an emphasis on the waist.
It’s in the details, at Ports, look for details on the decolte area, such as a large twisted fabric necklace.

8:05am: The News Backstage –
#1. AVEDA’s 3 steps to a greener fashion Week.
AVEDA came up with our favorite accessory of the week: an aluminum water bottle that resembles a fire extinguisher. The eco conscious beauty brand teamed with 6 designers who agreed to eliminate bottled water and fur – and to provide only organic, locally-sources food backstage at their shows.
It’s good to see that it’s becoming fashionable to want “to evoke a greener America”.
The Aveda bottle has advantage of keeping water cold much longer than the usual waste-producing water bottles.
New York Fashion Week is over, but we still have our aluminum bottle and will be traveling with it to LA Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios in Culver City in October.

#2. Hair hunks Frank Rizzieri [the key artist] and Kevin Ryan created an understated yet elegant low ponytail and added some extensions for fullness to go with Tia’s eclectic clothes and turbans.

Frank gave us a mini-lesson on how to wear a turban – frankly easier if you have short hair. Flatten hair with AVEDA ROOT CONTROL, put on a hair net and the turban over it. Done.

#3: MAC COSMETIC’S MINERALIZED MAKEUP: It’s the new miracle makeup must have, with reason. The powder gave the models’ faces sheen, dimension, and a beautifully polished appearance.

FUN FACT: It takes 3 days to make 1 batch in Italy. It’s baked for 24 hours, and cools for 2 and contains 30 minerals.

#4. Nail News: Nail tech, Roseann Singleton for CND used a gorgeous custom blended coco bronze that was made the day of the show. While it was a neutral, it had a little something extra, which went perfectly with the makeup.

9:30am: The Port 1961 Show
The theme: “Safiri” [definition] to set out on a journey; travel

In keeping with her “Safiri” theme, Tia took us on a very elegant safari in which you get to wear slouchy hats, glamorous turbans and peep toe patent leather wedges with a tiny heel. She’s a designer who appreciates and uses the finest fabrics available. Designs were at another level, leaving less skilled designers a few laps behind. Ports has that esoteric and individualistic element to it but at the same time it’s eminently wearable. The graphite coat and trousers are a wardrobe staple and in Tia’s able hands, tanks and dresses in gold and graphite metallics work for everyday. Her favorite look,
Supermodel Alek Wek’s 2nd exit, a kucha silk ombre dress with knotted sleeves accessorized with horsehair piped linen purse. Details such as the knotted sleeves, and softly rolled back waistbands added a touch of femininity and interest to these fussy and unfettered clothes. The word “graceful” best sums-up this collection.

Prepster Fav Takes A Voyage

Réyes French Flair
Text by J. Ecochard, Images Courtesy of Reyes

Sept 9th 2007

The moody stillness of the early (for this neighborhood) morning streets in NY’s quaintly named 'Meatpacking District'…mimicked the unusual backstage calm of Jose Ramon Réyes’ Bumble and Bumble staged show. As to be expected, under-aged models looked amazingly well rested –as they sipped champagne and recounted the fabulousness of assorted fashion week parties.

The luxe leisure atmosphere was certainly on display to perfection as soon as Reyes’ first look hit the runway. Inspired by Jean Patou, and prehaps an 'admiration' for Vogue Editor Supreme Anna Wintour's love of tennis-the dropped waist, Roaring 20’s-ish, pleated, ivory knit skirt, deep v-neck, long sleeved ivory knit cardigan, and cap neck shell edged in large blocks of moderne navy and red, followed by superb tailored and sensuous silk dresses in navy, gray, black/white and yellow… will appeal to those who channel the mode de vie of the legendary Sara Murphy –and her soirées with husband Gerald, on the Riviera. For 2008 the most new/old, preppy/elegance cut was the gently gathered at the waist, hemmed to the knee, flared navy shorts with deep pockets- a design that’s a welcome relief from last Spring’s slim cut, Bermuda shorts - which looked good on only toothpicks types and accordingly, sold miserably at retail. Finally, polished, up-to-date beige high waist pants with a matching sailor sensible short sleeve top- brought the collection into the here and now of modern day office life, albeit, a well compensated sector.

Makeup by Shiseido veered towards soft, neutral tones of ‘school girl chic’ with the Spring 2008 dominant look of flushed pink cheeks, sweet glossy pillow lips and healthy, glowing skin. Hair by the Bumble team was all reflective shine with natural texture prepped by Bumble Prep Styling Balm…then low side parted-with long tresses wrapped around iron barrels for a casual bounce.

Creative Nails finished the look with pretty pink polish on models’ nails. And a delightful chat with the company’s Amanada Fontanarrosa –unearthed the 2008 preference for almond shaped tips. “What a stiletto would do for your leg,” notes this London based nail specialist, so too the “new” longer shape- slenderizes the nail.

Van Cleef & Arpels, "Une Journee a Paris

Van Cleef & Arpels' "Une Journee a Paris celebration

Timestamp: Tuesday, September 4, 8:30pm

Location: The Hammerstein Ballroom, 311 West 34th Street, Manhattan

The Scene: a mob scene, but much more haute than the usual fashion week post-show crowd.

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Photos of jewelry, courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels
Photograph of Alber Elbaz & Demi Moore, ©Patrick McMullan

Van Cleef is in a category all its own, their motto could well be, "the best of the best". The majestic red carpeted ballroom was the perfect backdrop for the breathtaking pieces on display in tableaux vignettes. Van Cleef took us to some of Paris' most iconic locations, including the Jardin des Tuileries, L'Ile de la Cite, and the Place Vendome.
What makes Van Cleef unique is their signature settings. The stone[s] are set without any visible gold peeking through. The setting's structure resembles that of a railroad track and as a Van Cleef staffer explained, "are slided on it".
Among the pieces that captivated us were a peony flower ring extending over three fingers and the versatile "medallion" necklace. The medallion has a working zipper mechanism and took 600 hours to make. We say "versatile" because the bracelet can be unzipped into a necklace and adjusted to the desired length.
On our way out, we stopped to inspect a minaudiere inspired by the 1920's made of 18k gold and 2.30 carats of diamonds. The $305,000 evening bag took 395 working hours of labor, but that's what it takes to attain perfection such as this.

Y & Kei - fashion as an art installation

Y & KEI opts for an arty presentation over a catwalk show

Timestamp: Wednesday, September 5

Location: Celeste Bartos Forum, the NY Public Library

Rating: ++

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Photographs courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

The tiny backstage was super-squashed but worth it to get a close look at the models in these exquisite clothes. There was a rainbow fish scale knee length dress with a nude chiffon neckline.
Also of note was a black evening coatdress jacket worn with a black sequin skirt. This was the first time we saw sequins, which continued to appear at show after show later in the week. All the models wore towering double strap patent leather platform wedge sandals with baggy knee-highs that were so quirky that they worked.
As far as the presentation went, the team at Y & Kei made it easy. The models were posed on the perimeter of a giant glass mirror that was smack in the center of the room. In the center was an interesting sculpture composed of unpainted ladders, which added to the art gallery feeling. This season has already been dubbed "the season of the presentation". In the case of Y & Kei, they made the right choice by having a quiet presentation rather than a traditional runway extravaganza.

BRUCE BASICS

2001 CFDA Winners Work It For Women
Texts and Photos by J. Ecochard













September 11th, 2007

Fans of Daphne Gutierrez and Nicole Noselli’s Bruce line were probably happy with their second 'comeback' runway showing. The ladies delivered their highly coveted, sharp eye for details and polished, classically casual chic collection. Our favorites of this Spring 2008 outing were the soft flares and pleating on the gorgeously draped black jersey dresses, roomy pockets that are conveniently - and flatteringly- placed on nearly all garb… and the just right amount of shoulder padding to give some structure to elegantly tailored jackets and separates. The ikat print fabric, judiciously employed throughout the collection, lent some visual interest to a largely black/white/gray/red palette.
In sum? Very grown up...and correct without being prissy.








Hair and makeup were polished perfection.

The Bumble and Bumble team delivered, soft, sleek styles with a smooth, brushed off the face hair in a solid long braid, double looped… in the back. Soft flushed cheeks, subtle pink lips, and dewy skin gave the models a fresh appearance appearance.

ALEXANDER WANG-GET'S IT RIGHT

Alexander Wang-Young?-Yup! Talented?-Terrific!

Text and Photos by J. Ecochard

September 6th, 2007


Several NY Fashion Week designers targeted the 16 years old+, casual clothing market-that always conjure up weeks spent in the California coastal towns of Carmel-by-the-Sea and Malibu.

Think, lusciously languid, upscale enclaves with minimum dress codes.

Alexander Wang's performance , (all of 23 years old!) unlike some runway dramas, was actually interesting with white or black, softly ruffled -cotton dresses girlied up with patent leather heels, soft gray long sleeved button downs and leggings, great easy tailored, flattering cuts of white cotton shirts and shorts (with thin belts) paired with flats, slouchy denim cut-offs…and sweet one piece rompers/jumpsuits that could be be glammed up with the right amount of bling. Though the designer claims to be inspired by Melanie Griffith's charactor in "Working Girl"- we were more feeling the just right styling by the ideal embodiment of his line, Super Model, Erin Wasson.








Make-up was fresh and natural looking…with long, luscious ‘Kim Basinger” hair (aided by hair extensions), sweet flushed cheeks, glossy pink lips and soft caramel brown shaded eyes- which underscored Wang’s desired mixed sensibilities of sophisticated innocence.

BRIT LABEL's Poltock & Walsh NY DEBUT

UK Duo Source 80's Germany For Striking Effects
Text, Backstage Photos by J. Ecochard
Runway Photos Courtesy of Poltock and Walsh






















September 10th, 2007: Fiamma Poltock and Kate Walsh creatively channeled the visual style of German film director Rainer Werner Fassbinder for their NY Runway debut, sponsored by Henri Bendel’s . The bold colors, black and white combos, and Spring 2008’s ‘it’ color, gray- shot through the slinky collection of structured high waist mini/midiskirts, black skinny jeans, and beige and nude soft, flowing dresses - strikingly topped with the duo's now signature crisp, multi-layered, ruffles. This Poltock and Walsh vibe is one epitomizing modern edge twenty somethings, especially when the sophisticated garb is paired with black garters/hoisery as styled for this Metropolitan Pavillion runway romp. In previous press interviews, the designers have professed admiration for the often clown attired/maquillage, Klaus Nomi, a ground breaking musical performance artist of the early 80’s. And who doesn't miss that creative sole?



The clothes are not cheap (vulgar) looking by any manner of speaking. The ruffled collars, composed of high quality, contrasting chiffon fabrics, are polished examples of the ladies’ strong tailoring skills. Plus, the striking, deep side parted, super shine hair by the Christo Fifth Avenue team- deftly framed the pale canvas/strong brows models' faces-artfully 'painted' by Max Factor's make-up artists, in homage to Surrealist genuis, Man Ray.

We think Victor and Rolf lovin’ thin, fashionistas- who have the confidence to stand out…should seek out the line.

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada's exuberant lifestyle designs

Timestamp: Tuesday, September 4, 2007, 5:00pm

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada = Comfortable and colorful fashion

Location: The Agatha Ruiz de la Prada shop, 135 Wooster Street, Manhattan

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Photos, courtesy of Agatha Ruiz de la Prada

The collection is housed in a 2 story Soho townhouse whose brightly painted floors and walls serve as the perfect backdrop for Ms. De la Prada’s intrepid prints which are a pleasing mix of flowers, stars and heart in both huge and tiny dimensions.

The prints are multi-functional, used for everything from note cards to easy tops and dresses in the women’s and children’s collections. The designer is working on a lifestyle concept, as she also designs furniture, which matches her clothes to a tee. The colorful prints work as they are shown on simple shapes such as bell-shaped skirts and tops that are gathered and pleated at the waist. It’s entirely possible to imagine performing light exercise [as the designer proposes] in her pieces as well as lounging in them afterwards over a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice.

In addition to the clothes there were some well-priced accessories such as platforms covered in multi-colored patent leather. Speaking of patent leather, the MOD red patent skirt suit made more sense after we discovered that Ms. De la Prada had the legendary Paco Rabane as one of her mentors. Stylish oversize sunglasses were well priced in the low $100’s range, about 1/3 of what you’d usually pay for a pair of quality designer shades. There’s even a jewelry range, a fragrance, as well as animal accessories and even paddleball racquets. There doesn’t seem to be any area that this prolific Spanish designer hasn’t touched on during her 20+-year career.

From her furniture line, we took an instant liking to the solid colored wooden chairs with smiley face and heart shaped backs displayed in emerald green, ruby red and sapphire blue in the upstairs studio.

Ms. De la Prada is a known entity in Europe as she shows at the Milan RTW and at the Children’s Pitti Imagine Bimbo in Florence. She has stores in Milan, Spain, Santiago de Chile, San Juan, the US, Latin America, Russia and Korea.

Nautica - A day in the life [of a very privileged guy]

TIMESTAMP: WED. SEPT. 5TH, 8AM

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Backstage photographs, J. Ecochard





Runway photographs, courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week



Said Makeup artist, Marc Carrasquillo, “ This guy has the privileged life, he takes care of himself, but he’s not TOO fussy in his grooming or manner of dressing.”

The show took us through a day in this guy’s life from sunup to sundown. He starts his day in a white terry bathrobe and Captain’s cap – an indicator of what’s on the day's agenda – to a coated navy and yellow balmacaan, white cable sweater and Bermudas that will get him through the afternoon at sea. Designer Tom Brown may not have moved an enormous number of his much –discussed boy suits, but the idea obviously struck a chord with the design team at Nautica. Perhaps we’ve grown more accustomed to the idea, but they seemed a more viable option a year + later at Nautica. For going out to dinner at the yacht club, there’s a double-vented jacket in aquamarine, one of the season’s hot colors, worn with crisp white trousers.

Rachel Roy's Spring 2008 Collection

Timestamp: Wednesday, September 5, 2007

2:30pm: Rachel Roy, the West 39th Street Showroom
Rating: ++

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Photographs, J. Ecochard

Up at Rachel Roy, we were greeted by large polished golden letters above the door to the showroom that very appropriately spelled “DAMON DASH”. We say appropriate as Mr. Dash is the financial presence behind his wife’s clothing line. Mr. Dash has deep pockets, as he previously had a record label with Jay-Z [Rockafella Records] and experience in the rag trade [RocaWear].
The crowd consisted of editors and buyers and a few socialite friends like Susan Fales Hill.
The elegant and relaxed showroom with blond hardwood floors and cream colored marquetry was the perfect backdrop to the luxurious clothes display on mannequins and live models. Speaking of this, it is the season of the presentation,which is just fine by us as you get more than a fleeting look at the clothes and multiple photo ops.
There were the high-waisted palazzo pants and matching oversize vest in ivory satin in keeping with the ongoing interest in mens’ trousers.
For everyday, there’s the café au lait basket weave collarless zip front coat dress [another strong trend] with bracelet sleeves all the better to showoff the big bangles and elbow length cuffs you started wearing for fall and don’t want to give up.
Our Fave: the cream ART CANVAS sheath dress with raw neck line and armholes.

Question: What shoes and jewelry to wear with all of this?

Answer: Sexy patent leather ankle strap sandals in kiwi and platinum

The jewelry: large uneven stones worn either as a necklace or multiple bracelets

Adding some edge: Leave it to makeup guru, Bobbie Brown, to add some excitement in the makeup department. The fuschia eyeshadow worked with every outfit.

Trovata

TROVATA
Timestamp: Tuesday, September 4
9:10pm

Location address: the ‘wichcraft Catering Co.’s cavernous warehouse, the Westside Highway, the Forbidden Zone.


Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Photographs, J. Ecochard

We journeyed to the outer perimeter of the area referred to by fashion veterans as “the Forbidden Zone”, . No it's not the bombed-out remnants of New York City in "The Planet of the Apes", but it's a close second. "The Zone" is an area where newbie designers with small budgets and too cool for school big guns like Calvin Klein and Narcisso Rodriguez have shown since pre 9-11. [Calvin has defected further uptown, perhaps because with so many others showing in the zone, it's lost some of its appeal]. The “zone” lays West of Ninth Ave. and roughly spans from 22nd to 26th Streets. While there’s nothing wrong with spaces in Zone-land [the Chelsea Art Museum, Milk Studios] there are transportation issues to deal with if you don’t happen to have a car & driver expense account or good cab karma.

Backstage was the story at Trovata. We rubbed elbows with famous rock n roll faces like Perry Farrell formerly of Jane’s Addiction and Pat Benetar who were hanging in the small backstage sipping on mojitos waiting to go on stage.
The hair Alder did was the popular “Brazilian Beach Babe” look women of all ages aspire to – touchable and sexy. While it looks easy, the B. Babe look is best left to the pros at the Salon.
Makeup wise, you won’t need a lot this season. Jasmim Choi, Trainer in Charge for Shiseido, used only “hydra liquid foundation” on the cheekbones from Shiseido’s STM line and Q10, the company’s hot new Quadro eye shadow [brown tones] that will be available spring 08.
The Show
We stepped outside to a roaring rock and roll cocktail party that paused for the performance art spectacle that passed as T’s show this season.

Attendees were treated to Perry Farrell singing backed up by a crew that included a model dressed in a chic herringbone trench coat that will be likely to make it into the pages of American Vogue – they’re big Trovota supporters. While it was challenging to see the tiny collection in the dark, we did love the navy and white knits, white coats and jacket with oversize buttons and an adorable ecru knit A-line tennis dress.

*For an appointment with Alder: the Public Salon in Williamsburgh, Brooklyn tel: 718-782-4101