Image by DusicaDusica
A preview for Spring 2008
Review by J.Ecochard
Media reports of haute couture’s demise –‘aka’ art as fashion-may be true. And many large empires may view the artistry and expense of twice a year, runway extravaganzas as mere publicity tools for their high-end, high margins designer handbags, sunglasses, cosmetics, perfumes…’aka’ fashion as commerce.
But moods lifted while strolling the tradeshow aisles of ENK’s New York’s Accessorie Circuit at Pier 94 and Lingerie Americas at the Metropolitan Pavilion.
Because it is refreshing to preview dozens of small name fashion houses and entrepreneurs with vision, and up market chic… hawking wanna have it now handbags, jewelry, and foundation pieces for Spring 2008- at price points- digits smaller than those admittedly, sumptuous Parisian creations.
California businesses (with a few Big Apple, European and Texan based showrooms) have goodies that are particularly note worthy. Naturally, our first footsteps land us at Dusica Dusica’s luxe display of hand made Italian, senuously slouchy leather sacks, refined shoes, and light as a feather jackets and coats for women. Ingenuous use of silver mesh metallics for handbag handles, petal perfect ruching on ballet flats and sandals with exotic names (styles Danica and Michelina), and origami inspired pleating in muted/primary colors (gray, beige, maroon, black, silver) on the buttery smooth leather coats…bring to mind the deft, deconstructed use of leather fabrics by LA designer Ric Owens. Dreamy and delicious…with retail prices starting at $200 and up.
Images by GoGo Gear
A few yards away, our eyes are diverted to retail veteran’s Katharine Marinaro’s GoGo Gear’s new hip roller bags that are a genius combo of the carry everything, structured, oversized satchels (with attached wheels) one always wants/needs with padded interiors for electronic delicates, matching makeup bags…and exteriors in clever prints and fabrics like white and black python, leopard, easy to maintain vinyls, solid chocolate nylon, and pearlized bone or beige leathers…PLUS retractable hidden trolley handles. Smart!
We also always check in with Texas lady Marnie Cooper of Marniebugs- where her sophisticated use of big gold chains and thick leather braided trims on plush, modern classic red and black leather wristlets and satchels -are even more tempting than the silver margaritas we look forward to sharing with her as soon as we touch down in Austin.
A must next stop?
Image by Elizabeth Gillett
New Yorker Elizabeth Gillett once again proves why she is a buyer's favorite with her exquisite feminine scarves and wraps for Cruise/Spring 2008. A fetching combo of "new ideas all day long" and "what people respond to" leads to gold specked metallic linen and stand-out sheer black wraps... and bold primary colored black, red, beige and 'it' color Yves Klein (cobalt) blue woven shawls that can hotwire any yawn inducing, monotone outfit or be seductively twisted around one's torso for effortless chic cover-ups.
Other women designed collections that we covet/drool over include:
-The burgundy or black patent leather double flap bag, satchel and key fobs of the Barnie bags in Stephanie Lin’s Shih collection. The LA based hand crafted line has understated elegance similar to Coach bags- but made with far more finesse (and interest)-as if the designer’s knowledge of architecture inspired the cut and shapes of the goods.
Posh enough for the urban fashion capitals of Paris/Milan/NY, the Californian Boulevard company is new to us. Best are the sturdy but eminently touchable quilt like Alina large messenger bags in black leather or sateen, and the elegant, gold metal trimmed Gwen tote with roomy, strategically placed zipped pockets.
Images by Susan Farber
-We also love chatting with Susan Farber about her leather collection, inspired by her love of " fashion's ruffles and frills" that really stand out with the edgy, zipper trim ruffled "Laurel" plush clutches and "Nina" hobo bags. The soft to the eye, floweret petal folds of the assorted carry-alls, in metallic and solid leathers… are truly unique statement pieces and can make an all black head to toe outfit-or a red carpet gown.
Image by Yayoi Forest
If jewelery tastes run towards the delicate bent, the charming Yayoi Inada magicaly conjures up subtle, well crafted gold and silver pieces inspired by Nature.
A great way to finish the show was gabbing with the well-informed, eco-sensitive silver jewelry and organic clothing designer Jes MaHarry who also works with Peruvian craftswomen to produce warm wool outerwear and handbags that blend into Santa Fe scenery …but also ramp up citified wardrobes. Her lines are perennial best sellers in the Sundance catalogue.
Image by Jes MaHarry
Our take…maybe it’s all those good vibrations emanating from her Ojai CA ranch, her philosphy "...to leave the earth knowing you made a difference..." or/and her devotion to animals, but Jes MaHarry is one lady- we are thrilled is so successful. Karma.
The next day…a spin through the Lingerie Americas show seemed to reaffirm trends seen at the Miami Swimwear tradeshow.
Photos of Claudie Sontag/Swimsuits-J. Ecochard
Readily apparent amongst the luscious European brands is the continued focus on sophisticated , grown up foundation pieces in solid primary colors and pretty, ultra-feminine pastels with tasteful lace trims in silks, satin and technologically ‘enhanced’ fabrics that retain their shapes. One soon to be huge in the USA, lingerie and swimwear worlds- is crafted by impossibly (teach us how!) chic French designer Claudie Sontag - who showed deluxe, intricately seamed pieces in a rainbow palette of colorful prints, inspired by the legendary conquistadores and her "time in Spain." Ms. Sontag’s third collection fully embraces the concept of pairing opulent swimsuit jewels (her own line, naturally) and haute couture quality, lavish separates -for lounging around the pool on a sunny day… and pairing with a tutu-like black tulle skirt or linen pants and strappy heels -for a romantic evening out on the Riviera.
Another exclusive brand making a lifestyle statement targeting older, posh clientele is Chantelle … who plans to launch a “Beyond Beauty” campaign featuring the 40 year old super model Stephanie Seymour. And practically every brand featured adjustable, convertible bra straps, cup options and bottom cuts (thongs, hipsters for more coverage)- to provide a plethora of high-class choices for women…the mantra being comfort, proper fit and a sleeker silhouette with paper, disposable tags.
Photos of Mirla Sabino, ANK Swimwear, Heart Connector by Hope Lingerie- J, Ecochard
It is also a pleasure to see another woman heading up an overseas line ready to launch BIG TIME in the USA. Mirla Sabino, designer for Brazilian made swimwear line ANK (a highlight of Miami Swim Week) has signed on to reshape the 40 year old Hope collection , a mammoth international manufacturer with little American name recognition. This vivacious brunette is sure to change that sorry state of affairs as Hope’s booth was filled with eager retailers writing orders for the technologically intriguing brand that features seamless undergarments in solid colors like mushroom beige, black and violet -that are invisible, even under the flimsiest white pants, a push up bra that offers superior lift without a wire, and a breathable, supportive line of leggings and Brazilian briefs to wear everyday. (Another trend-shapewear separates for daily use). Hope is also launching a fun, innovative scented Hope Candy line in colors/smells like chocolate brown and strawberry pink. The mouth watering odors somehow survives the rigors of washing-which befits a company backed by exclusive, in-house know-how. Hope also introduced a silver, clasp Heart Connector that joins bra straps into an eye-catching v-shaped embrace.
We are also glad to see that the ‘green evolution’ of fabrics’ composition (bamboo, organic cotton, sea cell, soy) has made an impact on lingerie. Big and small designers including favorites Josie Natori , Fernando Sanchez and Hanky Panky have eco-friendly collections… a trend that along with fair trade practices, is exploding.